If there were a beauty pageant for beers, Guinness Stout would surely have a shot at the crown. Whether or not you’re a fan, the slow separation of rich, black stout and the creamy tan head until they strike a perfect balance is something to behold. That theatrical pour, however, has more to do with the draft system than the beer itself. The beauty comes from the nitro tap line, and it’s not just for Irish stouts anymore.

With a name like Brewology, it’s not shocking this Speonk restaurant showcases craft beer. Owner Roger Bencosme believes “food should always be delicious first,” while beer director Terence Daly ensures the beverages compliment the menu. Recently, they joined forces with Southampton Publick House to present a five-course beer dinner that we had the pleasure to attend.

In both atmosphere and its menu, Brewology aims to be contemporary casual. Edison bulbs hang from exposed beams above the U-shaped brick-clad bar, where the taps are at the center. Rather than trying to read a crowd of tap handles, bar patrons and diners are given a menu with detailed descriptions of each beer, and they just give a number from 1 to 24 to place their pint order.

We’d be remiss not to mention some newcomers. Brewology (201 Main Street, 631-509-1700) is new to Port Jeff, but locals are quickly getting a taste for the science of craft beer. Along with a long list of small-batch craft beers, Brewology also serves signature cocktails and wine.

The local catch, especially meaty striped bass, stands out with lemon-butter sauce and black rice. Vegetable-and-peanut lo mein boosts the sesame-crusted tuna. "Bbq roasted" chicken, however, is on the dry side. Things improve with the "cowgirl steak frites," a rib-eye sparked with chimichurri, as well as with macaroni and lotsa cheese under a mantle of cornbread crumbs. Be more excessive with Canadian-inspired poutine fries, finished with beef gravy, cheese curd, and sour cream.